Low temperature underfloor heating.

The house was built in 1886 and so the suspended timber ground floors don’t have any insulation in them. They are designed to be a ventilated space so there is a health current of air flowing under the floors. This makes for quite a cool floor especially in winter with a cold breeze.

Of course there is heat loss through the floors but with thick underlay and carpets this can be reduced. Properties that have sanded floor boards have a much higher heat loss due to the temperature difference and also the number of air changes the room will experience.

To carry out any insulation to the floors is a tricky job; it either calls for the insulation to be fitted from the underside of the floor boards or the floor boards taken up and the insulation fitted from above. the space below this property’s flooring was about 400mm so only enough to crawl along on one’s back and not one where you can carry out hours of tricky work. Therefore the floor boards were removed and cut up into fire wood for the log burner.

To allow the 16mm heating pipe to pass over the joists a 20 x 20mm groove was routered into the joists at 150mm centres. At this spacing the floor would need 143m of pipe.

There are many ways of insulating the floors and we found the simplest and cheapest to use 75mm of Rockwool supported by 3/4” laths and then 25mm of Kingspan on top to allow the heat to be reflected by the silver paper on the Kingspan.

This is a tricky process but quite easy and less irritating that using a glass wool product such has super glass insulation which has poorer insulation values and less robust in situ.

With all of the insulation in place it was time to start laying the pipe. The pipe must be unspooled from the reel by unwinding it so a small turntable was made to allow the pipe to rotate as it was unwound.

The pipe was held in place with either a piece of 9.5mm ply or a nail-in pipe clip.

Once all of the pipe was laid (yes there was enough!) we completed the reflooring of the floor deck with 18mm P5 chip board. This together with the 9.5mm ply made it back to the original finished floor height of 28mm above the joists as the floor boards were 28mm.

Prior to sealing up the pipework the connections were made to the existing heating flow and return pipework and these were tested for flow and delta T.

The flow and return pipework was sadly only 15mm with two other radiators feeding off the pipes. It was decided to T into the two 15mm copper flow and return pipes to see if there was enough flow to supply the floor. A temperature gauge was attached to the flow and return UFH pipe connections to see what delta T was available and so calculate the possible flow rate of the system.

With the (Viessmann 200w system) boiler and (Viessmann 150a) heat pump both working on a weather compensation heating curve and with an

Outside temperature of about 10°c at the time of testing the flow temperature was about 35°c.

This was shown on the temperature gauge as 33.3°c as a flow temperature and a return temperature of 24.4°c giving a delta T of 8.9°c which is exactly as we would have wanted it. With the other two radiators opened up fully the delta T increased to 10.3° demonstrating the slower flow rate as the other rads opened up.

There is no need for a mixing valve or additional pump on this installation as the boiler pump and heat pump, pump were quite capable of supplying the flow. There is no need to blend down the temperatures because the boiler / heat pump is working on weather comp and so automatically reduces the flow temperature as the outside temperature increases.

So does it work?

To test its effectiveness we measured the flow temperature and the surface temperature of the chip board with 2 temperature data loggers and plotted the temperatures over a 24hr period, see below.

The plot shows the floor temp reaching 22.5°c after about 5 hours of constant heating at a flow temperature of about 35°c

Getting more out of the heat pump

There is a technique for extracting heat from one source and passing it to another source without the two liquids mixing – we generally call this hydraulic separation and in this case it’s done with a plate heat exchanger.

A plate heat exchanger

Using this device I have been able to use some more of the heat pumps capacity to heat my solar system. The reason for not wanting to mix the two liquids is because the solar system has anti-freeze in it (known as glyco-ethylene) and the heat pump water doesn’t.

The plate heat exchanger

So two circuits are created the come very close to eachother but don’t actually touch. This give them time to pass heat (heat transfer) between one and the other and this make the system work.

With the winter in Newcastle offering very little solar heat due to shorter days and a lower sun angle, it makes sense to use the heat pump’s flow water to heat the hot water cylinder via the solar system.

All that is required is a few pumps and a diverter valve so the system can continue to use solar heat when it’s available.

Plate loading of the solar system via the heat pump.

There are a few sensors needed to measure the temperatures of the heat sources and the hot water cylinder and also a micro computer to make all the decisions about which pump / valve combination to switch on at any given scenario.

Now its up and running the heat pump brings the cylinder up to about 40°c and then the solar takes over and takes it above 50°c.

(Sadly I could only pick a picture of a coal fire for the system controller graphic – ironic since decarbonising the system is the main priority!)

Upgrading the insulation in a 1886 terrace house

As many will know, fitting a Hybrid heat pump has the advantage of being able to run your existing radiators with your existing insulation levels and still have a warm house. This is because the boiler in a hybrid system is set to start working when higher flow temperatures are needed.

The great beauty of this approach is that it gives the home owner (1) time to improve the thermal properties of the house will still being able to heat it and make it comfortable.

To that end this summer I replaced one of my old single glazed sash windows, which was about 140 years old, with a modern, timber, double glazed and draft proofed window.

I also embarked an a project to improve the outer brick walls thermal efficiency by fitting 50mm kingspan expanded polyurethane insulation board bonded to 12.5mm plasterboard and fire to a slurry coated external wall.

New window and walls stripped of plaster

Once the walls were stripped the plasterers could start coating, boarding and skimming the walls.

Slurry coated walls and partial boarded

The decorative cornice was removed to allow the insulation to run right up to the ceiling and then reinstated by a local specialist at the end of the job.

Cornice reinstated by specialist

(1) https://www.hhic.org.uk/news/decarbonisation-of-heat-impossible-without-hybrid-heat-pump-incentive-says-expert

Well that’s a wrap for the summer folks

It’s been a hot one in some, not all, places; we’ve had a decent amount of sun shine this year and as a result I have installed an extensive solar thermal system on my garage roof to harvest some of that free energy.

The roof is predominantly west facing so get a decent amount of sun up to 3pm in the summer. Also my kitchen window looks over the top of the garage hence the larger array in the horizontal the plane.

I purchased the two flat sections from eBay for about £300 and the angled, Viessmann, for about £1,500.

The pipework is quite extensive which I did in 22mm copper compression so that it was rigid.

Work in progress

The system happily heats about 300L of water in the summer and because it has an operating temperature of up to 150° it can take 50° water to 60° without running out of heat.

The next project is to integrated the Heatpump flow circuit into the lower coil of the water cylinder so I can preheat the cylinder with the heat pump in winter. This will be done by branching into the flow pipe to the cylinder and taking it through a plate heat exchanger which is heated by the heat pump flow circuit. Thereby heating my cylinder for less than 2p per kWh.

The controller, a Navitron TDC3 (above) will allow two heat sources and can operate two separate pumps.

More to follow, have a great winter.

(Published Oct 2023)

Heat Geek qualifications

I’m delighted to announce that I am now fully Heat Geek qualified.

The company, Heat Geek, run advanced heating design courses and are considered to be the pinnacle of practical engineering heating design. Their residential and on-line courses cover all the technical aspects of specifying, sizing and designing boilers, heat emitters, cylinder and heat pumps for domestic and commercial use. This includes whole house / building heat loss calculations done from first principles and detailed heat source design parameters such as flow rates, specific heat capacity of different media and advances controls such as weather compensation.

The qualification has underpinned much of my learning from becoming an engineer in 1985 and given me new skill and knowledge in a industry that is constantly changing and demands higher levels of technical understanding as we strive to make our heating systems carbon free and more efficient.

Hybrid heat pumps – the way forward for our aged housing stock

Some background

Many people will have heard of heat pumps and certainly AC – air conditioning units? Firstly a heat pump IS an air conditioning units and IS a refrigeration unit.

The function of a heat pump (the generic name for all 3) is to extract heat from one source and use it in another source. With a fridge, it’s job is to take heat from the warm air in the fridge and deposit it outside the fridge, leaving the fridge cooler. The heat pump does the same but takes heat from outside a building and sends it into a building to heat the living space.

We call this process a reversible refrigeration cycle because it uses no fuel such as oil or gas and all the energy it creates it reuses.

The process requires an electric pump (compressor) to circulate a fluid (gas and liquid) round the system from indoors to outdoors, it is this pump that requires energy in the form of electricity.

A heat pump is very efficient because it is using free heat from outside (as long as it’s above 7°c) and often has an efficiency of 500%. We call this efficiency a COP or coefficient of performance, which in essence means that for every KWh of energy consumed (in electricity) the heat pump produces 5KWhs of heat energy. Unfortunately the great drawback of heat pumps is two fold. 1) they run on electricity which is about 40p/KWh at current (June 2022) prices and 2) they are much less efficient on cold days so reducing the benefit.

So how can we use that efficiency in heating our homes? One approach is to us a gas boiler and a heat pump in tandem. The heat pump works during the cooler, spring / autumn months (6-8 months) and then the gas boiler takes over during deep winter (December and January). This is believed to reduce the gas consumption by over 80% which of course means a reducing in greenhouse gases.

This technology can be further advanced by installing a system where the electricity used is obtained for free*. If a property is capable of supporting solar panels (PV) then a good proportion of the heat pumps annual electricity usage can be supplied by a modest PV array.

The solar panels can also be linked to a battery pack that will store the electricity until it is needed, say in the early morning when the sun is still in bed! The battery pack would then charged up during the sun light hours when the heating system is switched off as the occupants would be out of the house at work, in many cases.

I am starting a project at home to link all of these technologies and will be updating my blog with progress. So far I have partly installed the buffer tank.

First progress 6th June 2022

Heat pump progress so far, 25th June 2022
Progress today (27/6), taken the flow and return outside and pressure tested the system so far.

More progress this week. Heat pump out door unit brackets fabricated and the heat pump is due to be delivered and fitted this Tuesday (2nd Aug), very excited

Another little milestone this week (4/8/22) as I manage to get the heat pump lifted and mounted on the wall outside, not easy given it’s 4m up and weighs 200kgs.

Hiab does the trick no problem
Happily mounted on the external wall waiting for the pipework and electrics to be connected up.

Pipe work now installed outside but insulation and trace heating still to do

Pipework in place ready to be tested and insulated

We had electricians install the cables and wire up the charger / inverter and the indoor and out door unit so that it’s now ready to be switched on when the pipework is complete.

With the insulation phase now completed I’m ready to connect the heat pump into my existing central heating system and wire up the electrical controls so that heat is pumped at the right time and to the right place.

Pipes and cylinder now fully insulated to prevent heat loss
External flow
and return pipes insulated

Anti-freeze valves fully insulated to minimised heat loss

Electronic control (Nov 2022).

Unfortunately the Viessmann 150a does not have integrated software to allow inter-heat source control; ie. It won’t talk to my Viessmann 200W system boiler and work out the best way to heat the house and hot water. I’m told by Viessmann that the software is being developed and so waiting to do what they come up with in that area. Meanwhile…..

I’ve had to design and configure my own external hybrid switching circuits to allow one unit to work at certain times when it’s inefficient/ expensive (£) for the other unit to work.

In principle, above 5°c the heat pump should work 100% of the time, save for the hot water demand (come back to that later). When the heat pump is working we don’t want the gas boiler coming on and so I have designed some relay circuitry to switch the boiler off.

Heat Pump Hybrid Wiring Diagram

The above circuit diagram deals with the switching off of the boiler but not switching off of the heat pump, that’s is still under development.

The relays and wiring is now in place and ready to test

One more step close to the battery installation. The batteries are charged up on the Octopus Go night time rate of 12p/KWh and then the Victron Multiplus does the sharing of energy from the batteries to the house loads (heat pump) until the batteries are exhausted or the loads are reduced.

Hybrid Heatpump with battery power supply

With the hardware installed it’s now a question of setting up the systems to optimise the energy available. The 48v battery pack is converted into 230v via a Victron inverter which also charges the batteries with off-peak electricity at 12p/KWh.

Octopus Go low cost electricity deal

The cheap electricity is designed for people to charge their cars with lithium-ion batteries but there is no reason why you can’t charge a battery pack that powers your home heating system.

It’s early days but you can see how my gas usage has reduced from 620kwh in September to only 221kwh in November so far (1 week to go) and a much cooler month. This is massively reducing my CO2 output.

The real time data from the Victron VRM system can be seen here:

Finally managed to get my heat pump working again after fitting a second “multi” (inverter – charger). I needed more watts at night to get the batteries back up to 100% so had to parallel a second multi which is about 1000x more difficult to setting up than weather comp 😂. The Victron Community were very helpful in diagnosing and assisting the set up so big thanks to them. Using that sort of technical help was new to me and took some getting used to but in the end it worked. Above 5°c my house heating is costing about 4p/KWh below that the old Vitodens 200w kicks in. Happy New Year everyone!

Update electrical wiring layout to reduce heating of cables

A flue too far.

This is the condition of a flue up in a loft that I found while investigating poor boiler performance. The boiler had been serviced by British Gas every year and given a clean bill of health. On closer inspection of the flue I found it was hot to the touch on the outside (the cold air intake side) which led me to believe that exhaust gases were escaping from the inner pipe and contaminating the fresh air coming into the boiler. Naturally I placed an At Risk warning notice on the boiler and switched it off.

I was asked by the customer to investigate further and found, as expected, that the internal pipework had come loose and that the boiler was burning it’s own exhaust gases, creating high levels of carbon monoxide.

I don’t know how long the flue pipes has been disconnected but I am sure the ah-hoc installation was an original feature back in 2001 when the boiler was installed.

With the flue in such poor condition and the boiler 20 years old and performing poorly the clients elected to fit a new boiler. They decided upon a Viessmann 100w system boiler linked to a 250L unvented cylinder. The system is a high tech system running on weather compensation with domestic hot water priority using the Viessmann 4 pipe system, all managed via the Viessmann, ViCare App. The boiler has a built in WiFi module so there’s no need for expensive external third party controls.

The new flue has taken a similar route to the old one but, as you can see, has been secured firmly to the building structure to give it many years of excellent performance and life.

An unvented disaster – saved!

We were asked to look at the hot water system at a big house in Gosforth and found a terrible mismatch of poorly configured and installed high pressure unvented plumbing.

Virtually none of the pipework is secured to any of the structure and the electrics are politely dangerous, never mind prone to failure.

What was called for was for a complete removal, redesign and reinstalling of the cylinders with new valves and pipework.

The two cylinders had a combined capacity of 500L but when we tested them the hot water ran out after 183L. Clearly things weren’t right and so we set about proposing a complete removal and reinstall.

With the clients at home more often now due to the lockdown we needed to ensure they had heating and hot water at the end of each day. Consequently we organised to remove one cylinder at a time and replumb it while leaving the other cylinder able to keep the bathrooms going.

Having removed the left hand cylinder it was possible to built a proper level base and start rerouting the pipework around the walls and down the back so that they could be effectively supported to prolong their service life.

The right hand cylinder was then moved to the left position to enable the repiping to continue while keeping services on in the house.

While we had access to the pipework behind the cylinder this was insulated and pressure tested before the remaining work was done to the right hand cylinder pipework which included the repositioning of the pump and electrical control box.

How the wiring centre should look 😀

This was again tested for safe operation and the right hand cylinder refitted into the very tight space!

And that’s it folks! The cylinders were plumbed to run in series so no issues with balancing the two cylinders working against each other and now that all of the pipework is firmly fixed to the walls it should last a good century or two!

Boiler Bee reaches 800 reviews

We are delighted to have reached the wonderful milestone of 800 reviews on Checkatrade.

We’ve been really luck to have very appreciative customer who’ve taken time to give us positive feedback, so thank you all 😀

It’s been a very stressful summer and as winter approaches we traditionally get much busier with breakdowns as people switch on their heating systems. As before we are committed to attending to your needs but we do ask that you maintain a safe distance so that we can work in a risk and stress free environment.

If we can embrace the governments hands, face, space guidance it would be great for everyone.

Looking forward to the end of the pandemic 😀

Busy time at Boiler Bee

It’s been a busy few months at Boiler Bee. There’s been the usual array of breakdowns and repairs needed for my regular customer, for whom I always make time; but as well as them I’ve been extending my portfolio by becoming trained on mobile coffee machines so that I can install, service and repair said machines and keep the mobile vans selling coffee (other drinks are available) to the general public.

It’s become evident that there is a great shortage of qualified gas safe engineers able to complete work on mobile coffee vans. Without boring you with the detail, the law states that any gas appliance must only be worked on by someone who is trained and competent. Any machine, such as a gas powered coffee machine, with a gas element is therefore a gas appliance and requires a gas engineer with the appropriate qualifications which are CMC and Comcat2. These are the qualifications I am seeking to obtain.

The governing body, UKLPG has issued codes of practice to allow engineers to interpret the British Standards and comply with the gas laws.

This qualification will allow me to service and maintain coffee machines as pictured above.

With the increase in street trade and mobile food vendors it’s a growing market that needs skilled people.

Once again, Derek and I look forward to being of service to the wider business community in the very near future 🐝